N°1 : De l’or et des paillettes ou l’importance des labels

Classé dans : labels - Mots clés : aucun



I/ L’or, qu’est ce que c’est ?

Il s’agit d’un élément chimique :

« Symbole : Au
Numéro atomique : 79
Masse atomique :196,9
Masse volumique : 19,3g/cm3
Température de fusion : 1064°C »

Son prix actuel est d’environs 35 euros le gramme.

Synonyme de faste et de luxe, l’on oublie parfois qu’il fait en réalité partie de notre quotidien puisque présent dans l’ensemble de nos objets électroniques.

Alors que le marché de l’or ne cesse de grossir, il faut prendre conscience que son exploitation est un problème.

II/ Les problèmes d’extraction

1) Production industrielle

Depuis le XXème siècle, plus de 80 % de l’extraction de l’or se fait de façon industrielle. Le fait est que cette production a recourt à des techniques d’extraction très polluantes et dangereuses.

Les entreprises chargées d’extraire l’or ont notamment recourt au cyanure. Ceci crée un phénomène de « drainage acide » qui dégage du plomb et de l’arsenic, des substances hautement cancérigènes.

Tout ceci est effectué par des Hommes, de tous ages, sans protection, dans des cours d’eau potable qui deviennent chargés en métaux lourds, privant ainsi des millions de personnes d’eau et les exposant fortement à ces substances.

L’organisation internationale du travail a tenté d’imposer aux miniers une consultation obligatoire des populations alentours des sites d’extraction afin que ceux ci puissent refuser l’implantation d’une mine dans leur région. Cependant, les propriétaires miniers ayant bien plus de poids que les populations locales, cette mesure n’a pas permis de stopper l’implantation de nouvelles zones minières…

2) Production artisanale

Les mineurs artisanaux représentent entre 10 et 15 % de la production d’or. Ils exercent sans autorisation, dans des conditions dangereuses et ont recourt à l’utilisation de mercure pour extraire le précieux métal jaune.

Ils font acheter leur or à très bas prix car ils n’ont aucun appui et restent miséreux.

3) En bref

L’extraction de l’or est très peu encadrée, elle est de ce fait extrêmement polluante, dangereuse pour les hommes qui y travaillent mais également pour les populations alentours. C’est aussi une source d’exploitation humaine, une forme d’esclavage des hommes et des enfants

III/ Des solutions ?


1) Le recyclage

Fort heureusement, le secteur de la joaillerie est celui dans lequel le recyclage est le plus développé. Il faut absolument privilégier cette voix lors de la création d’un bijou.

Cependant, le recyclage ne permet pas de couvrir l’ensemble des besoins en or dans tous les secteurs. L’on doit donc continuer d’en extraire.

Il faut alors privilégier l’or labellisé.


2) Les labels

En 2009, Fairtrade et Fairmined forment un label qui vise une exploitation minière plus responsable et garantissent la traçabilité de l’or, de la mine jusqu’au consommateur.

Ce label interdit le travail des enfants et met en relation les miniers artisanaux afin qu’ils s’organisent en coopératives. Cela leur permet un meilleur contrôle des prix de vente.

Des bonus financiers sont également accordés aux miniers qui n’ont pas recours au cyanure et au mercure.

En 2012 le label s’étend à l’extraction de l’or et du platine

En 2014, Fairtrade et Fairmined deviennent deux labels différents, Fairmined soutenant plus particulièrement le travail des petits artisans.


3) Acheter de l’or équitable/recyclé


Lors de la création ou de l’achat d’un bijou, il faut demander au créateur qu’il utilise de l’or labellisé et qu’il vous en fournisse un certificat.

Le surcoût en est minime, on l’estime environs à 15 %.

Pour vous donner une image :

On ajoutera à peu près 150 euros si nous avons 1000 euros de métal d’apport.
1000 euros d’or aujourd’hui c’est un bijou aux alentours de 30 grammes de métal donc, ce qui n’est n’est pas courant, un tel poids relève de la haute joaillerie.

(Pour comparaison, une alliance classique de femme fait bien souvent moins de 6 grammes d’or soit un surcoût d’une trentaine d’euros si vous optez pour de l’or équitable)

D’autre part vous pouvez bien sûr opter pour de l’or venu d’anciens bijoux et objets et demander à ce que ce soit cet or-ci qui soit utilisé.

- Aucun bijou ne vaut la maltraitance des hommes et de la nature -




Sources :
Sites:
http://www.befair.be/fr/content/lor-%c3%a9quitable%c2%a0-une-qu%c3%aate-difficile-1
http://www.fairmined.org/fr/
http://paulette-a-bicyclette.com/paulette-a-bicyclette-joaillier-ethique-alliances-or-equitable-paris/bijoux-ethiques-eco-responsables-engagement-equitable/
https://www.loretlargent.info/or/or-equitable/3809/
https://www.usinenouvelle.com/editorial/la-monnaie-de-paris-lance-une-piece-en-or-equitable.N693154
Livre:
Les bijoux - Art et techniques par Carles Codina - Editions VIAL




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